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Should You Buy a Home Now or Wait for Interest Rates to Come Down?

Prices are high, rates are high - so should you wait? Debbie works the question with her live audience: who can afford to wait, why buy-now-refinance-later usually wins, what a refinance really costs, and the blended-rate math for tapping equity without losing a 3.5% first mortgage.

Should You Buy a Home Now or Wait for Interest Rates to Come Down?

Mortgage Mom Radio • “Should you wait to buy/refi until the interest rates come down” • Live show from Wednesday, February 28, 2024 • 44 minutes • Hosted by Debbie Marcoux, NMLS #237926

Prices are high, rates are high — so shouldn't you just wait until next year? In this interactive episode, Debbie takes that question head-on with her live audience: who genuinely can wait, why the buy-now-refinance-later crowd has history on its side, what a refinance actually costs, and the blended-rate math for tapping equity without giving up a 3.5% first mortgage.

Key takeaways

  • Selling one home to buy another? You're a wash — your home appreciates alongside the one you'd buy, so timing matters far less. That's also exactly why inventory is so low: nobody without a life reason (relocation, growing family, divorce, inheritance) has any urgency to sell.
  • First-time buyers and portfolio builders: Debbie's call is buy now, refinance later. Look at what you could have paid in 2021 versus today — waiting hasn't produced cheaper homes, and most of the country is still appreciating year over year despite the higher rates.
  • When rates finally drop, the sidelined buyers all come back at once — multiple offers, waived contingencies, 2020–21-style overbidding, and fast appreciation. Buying at today's rate and refinancing into the lower one skips that fight. Debbie's read: those ready, willing, and able before summer 2024 will be sitting in a very good position come 2025.
  • Where rates stood at air time: government loans (FHA/VA) in the high 6s — roughly 6.5–7%, averaging about 6.75% — and conventional around 7.5%, varying with credit score, property type, and down payment.
  • A refinance's hard costs run about $3,500–$5,000 depending on your state, loan size, and property — and they can be financed into the loan. The test isn't “is this my forever home”; it's whether the monthly savings outrun the cost within the time you'll keep the loan (a $5,000 cost at $250/month saved breaks even in about three years).
  • Need cash but sitting on a 3.5% first mortgage? Compare blended rates. A small cash need against a big low-rate balance favors a HELOC or home equity loan even near 10%; a cash need close to the size of your remaining balance can make one new first mortgage at 7–7.5% the cheaper package.
  • Pull up your actual credit card rates before deciding — cards people think are at 13–16% are coming in at the high 20s and even 30s, which changes the consolidation math fast.

Chapters

  • 03:15Today's question: buy or refi now, or wait for rates?
  • 08:15Where rates are right now: FHA/VA vs conventional
  • 09:30The audience votes: buy now, refinance later
  • 10:15Selling to buy? Why you're a wash either way
  • 11:30Why inventory is so low — and prices keep rising
  • 13:30Buying without selling: what waiting since 2021 cost
  • 19:00“I'll just wait until next year” — Debbie pushes back
  • 20:30What happens when rates drop and everyone floods back
  • 24:30Licensed in 11 states — and the no-pressure consultation
  • 29:00What a refinance really costs
  • 32:00The break-even math, not the “forever home” test
  • 33:30Down payment assistance programs, explained
  • 36:00Refinancing today at 7% when you have 3.5%? The blended-rate math
  • 40:00Credit cards in the high 20s and 30s
  • 41:30Wrap-up and the March 6 home buyer workshop

Questions answered on this show

“I want to buy a home, but I think I'll just wait until next year — rates and prices make it too hard.”

Debbie disagrees — respectfully. The majority of would-be first-time buyers are making exactly this bet, and no reputable analyst she's read is forecasting home values to drop; most expect them to keep rising. When rates do come down, all of those waiting buyers hit the market at once, and that's when multiple offers and overbidding drive prices up fast, like 2020–21. Her counter: figure out what you can buy right now — even a condo instead of the three-bed single family — because any property builds equity you can later sell or rent your way up from. And to the follow-up about stagnant wages making the payment hard: that's what a phone consultation is for — it's not an application and nobody pulls your credit just to talk through what's possible.

“Doesn't it depend on whether the house is your forever home? Refinancing is expensive.”

Half right. A refinance's one-time hard costs run about $3,500–$5,000 depending on your state, the loan size, and the property — so it's not free, but it's not prohibitive either, and the fees can be financed into the loan so nothing comes out of pocket. The real test isn't forever-home status: it's break-even. If the refi costs $5,000 and saves $250 a month, you break even around three years — sell before that and it cost you money; keep the loan four or five years and the savings run well past the cost. Match the refinance to how long you'll actually hold the property and the loan.

“What are the homeowner assistance programs?”

Down payment assistance programs exist statewide, citywide, and nationally, generally aimed at first-time buyers in lower income brackets, and they help cover the money needed for the down payment. Which ones you'd be eligible for depends on where you're buying, your credit score, and your income — a consultation question first, then a pre-approval application once a program looks like a fit. (And yes — Debbie is licensed in 11 states, including Washington, where this questioner was asking from.)

This week's numbers (week of February 28, 2024 — averages, not quotes)

  • Government 30-year (FHA/VA): roughly 6.5–7%, averaging about 6.75%, depending on points and seller credits
  • Conventional 30-year (Fannie Mae/Freddie Mac): about 7.5%
  • Typical refinance hard costs: $3,500–$5,000, varying by state, loan size, and property type — financeable into the loan
  • Credit card APRs Debbie is seeing on client statements: high 20s to 30s

Your rate depends on FICO score, property type, loan balance, and loan purpose. These are national conforming averages for context, not a quote.

Run your own buy-now-or-wait numbers

Call 844-935-3634 (844-WE-LEND-4), start an application, or run your numbers with the mortgage calculators. Get the weekly rate rundown in the newsletter.

Full transcript (lightly edited for clarity)

Auto-generated captions cleaned for readability. Commercial breaks and repeated housekeeping have been trimmed; licensing information appears at the bottom of this page.

Today's question — and a housekeeping note

Welcome to Mortgage Mom Radio. I'm Debbie Marcoux, the Mortgage Mom — it's Wednesday, it's 1 p.m., and we are live on YouTube and Facebook. I can see questions from both platforms, so put yours in the feed.

Quick announcement: I've retired the old text-message keyword MOM and replaced it with LIVE. Here's why. People get excited about buying or refinancing, opt in, get the deal done — and then understandably lose interest for a few years, and we ended up sending 4,000 texts to 3,800 people who had no intention of joining. So we're starting the list fresh: text LIVE to 844-935-3634 and you'll get one text a week with the topic and the link to join.

Today's show is interactive on purpose: should you buy now, refinance now, or wait for interest rates to come down? There's good reasoning on both sides, and I want your opinions in the feed — then I'll tell you where I stand.

Where rates are right now

Let's set the table. Rates are definitely higher than they've been in many years. On a government loan — FHA or VA — you're looking at rates in the high sixes, somewhere between 6.5% and 7% depending on whether you pay points or get seller credits to buy the rate down; I'm seeing about 6.75% on average. On a conventional loan — Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac — you're in the ballpark of 7.5%, a little lower or higher depending on your credit score, the property type, and your down payment. That's our starting point for this conversation.

The opinions are rolling in: Heather says don't wait — buy now and refinance later. Armando agrees. And Janice says it depends on whether the house is your forever home, because refinancing is expensive. I love all of these, and we're going to work through each one.

If you're selling to buy: you're a wash

Start with the homeowner who put their plans on hold: "my rate is low, my payment is low, if I sell and buy at these rates my payment jumps — I'll wait." Think back to when you first had that thought. If it was when rates started climbing in 2021, look at what your home was worth then versus now. For somebody selling one home and buying another, you're basically a wash: your home went up in value, and so did the one you want to buy. There's no rush either direction — and that's exactly why inventory is as low as it is. Nobody sells right now without a life reason: a relocation, a baby on the way, inheriting a parent to care for, a divorce. Those things can't wait for a market; everything else can.

And because inventory is that low, even with rates high we are still seeing appreciation — month over month and year over year across the majority of the country, with only certain pockets seeing any depreciation. Waiting has not produced cheaper houses. So if you're a seller-buyer: do it when the time is right for your life. Buy today and you pay a higher rate but a lower price than later; buy later and your sale price is higher too. A wash.

If you're buying without selling: the math is different

Now take the younger buyer in a condo — just married, baby on the way, wants to keep the condo as a rental and buy something bigger. Or the first-time buyer with nothing to sell. If you started thinking about this in 2021 and put it on hold, go look at what you could have bought that property for two or three years ago. Today it's a lot higher. And when rates come down and the market takes off, it will be higher still — because of everybody who's been sitting and waiting.

For you, my opinion is Heather's and Armando's: do it now, and refinance when rates come down to push the payment lower. If it becomes a rental, you're renting into a strong rent market too. That's my honest read for the first-time buyer and the portfolio builder.

“I'll just wait until next year”

A comment from the feed: “I want to buy a home but I think I'll just wait — next year. It's not easy with rates and prices.”

That is what a lot of people believe, and it's what the majority of would-be first-time buyers are doing: prices are high, rates are high, wait for 2025. But consider this. Everybody who's waiting is planning the same move you are. And of the analysts and market-readers I follow, I have not read one reputable forecast calling for home values to plummet — most believe values keep rising. So picture 2025: rates come down, and every one of those on-hold buyers floods back at once. Were you trying to buy in 2020 and 2021? There wasn't enough inventory, there were more buyers than sellers, and getting an offer accepted practically required a huge down payment or all cash, waiving your appraisal contingency — agreeing to bring cash for any gap between the appraisal and your price — even skipping the physical inspection. That is what the majority of analysts expect again when rates drop: multiple offers, overbidding, and very fast appreciation, like we saw in 2020 and 2021.

So I'm going to disagree with you, respectfully — you're not wrong about how hard today feels, but here's the other side of the coin. The question isn't "should I wait?" It's "can I buy now?" Do you have the credit? Is there a down payment assistance program that fits? What can you afford at today's rates and prices? Maybe it's not the three-bedroom, two-bath single family — but can we get you into a property? Even a condo goes up in value, and that equity becomes the ticket to the single family later, whether you sell it or rent it out.

He also asked whether we help people in Washington state — we absolutely do. I'm licensed in 11 states, mostly the West Coast plus several across the Midwest, South, and East: Washington, Nevada, Arizona, California, Texas, Illinois, Tennessee, North Carolina, and more. And it never hurts to call. A consultation is a conversation, not a loan application — nobody's pulling your credit just to talk through what you could buy, what payments would look like, and whether now works for you. I truly believe the people who are ready, willing, and able to move in 2024 — before the summer months hit — are going to be sitting in a very good position come 2025.

What a refinance really costs

Janice's point deserves its own segment: is refinancing expensive? Here's the honest answer. The hard costs — the one-time fees — depend on your state (escrow state versus attorney state), what title and appraisal run in your area, and the size of the loan and value of the home. A big estate costs more to appraise than an average single family; an investment property or a three-to-four-unit building with rental income costs a bit more too. On average you're looking at about $3,500 to $5,000 in hard costs.

So Janice is right that it's not super cheap — and Heather's right that it's not super expensive, because the cost is weighed against the monthly savings and the savings over the life of the loan. And as Michael from the feed confirmed from his own refi: the fees can be financed into the loan, so you don't have to pay them cash out of pocket.

The real test isn't whether it's your forever home. It's the break-even. Say the refinance costs $5,000 and saves you $250 a month — round numbers, I'm in the studio without a calculator — that's about three years to break even. Selling in under three years? Keep the loan you have; the refi would cost you money. Staying four or five years or longer? You're saving money past the break-even, whether the home eventually becomes a rental or gets sold. Match the refinance to your time frame in the property, and it doesn't matter what label the house carries.

Down payment assistance

From the feed: “What are the homeowner assistance programs?” There are down payment assistance programs statewide, citywide, and some that work across the nation, generally for first-time buyers in lower income brackets, helping with the money needed for the down payment. Which programs fit depends on where you're buying, plus your credit score and income — so it starts as a consultation question, and if it sounds right, we move to the pre-approval application to confirm you qualify and see every option on the table.

Refinancing today when your rate is 3.5%: the blended-rate math

Now the refinance side of today's question. If your current rate is significantly lower than today's, there's no reason to refinance — full stop. So who's even considering it? Someone who needs cash: to pay off debt, to do improvements, to build an ADU, to put a down payment on another property.

Whether that refinance makes sense comes down to your balance versus your cash need. Two scenarios. You owe $150,000 on a home worth $700,000–$800,000 and you want $150,000–$250,000 out: a second mortgage at a rate approaching 10% on a balance that size makes no sense — your blended rate across the 3.5% first and the 10% second would be higher than one new first mortgage at 7–7.5%. Roll it together. Opposite case: you owe $500,000 at 3.5% and need $100,000: $100,000 at 10% stacked on $500,000 at 3.5% beats $650,000 at 7.5% by a mile. Keep the first, take the second.

What we look for is your cheapest option, period. It's not "we need loans this month, let's talk this guy into a refinance" — it's doing right by the client so they're a client forever. Rates will drop again, and whoever refinances for cash today can refinance again later to bring the payment down, same as a buyer.

One more thing on the debt side: if the reason is credit card debt — and we see clients with $100,000 across cards and personal loans — pull up your actual card terms before you assume anything. Cards people believed were at 13% or 16% are coming in at the high 20s and even the 30s. At those rates, the consolidation math moves fast, and sometimes even the full new first mortgage wins. We'll run the numbers and show you your cheapest path.

Wrap-up

If you've been thinking about buying at all — this year or next — jump on my free home buyer workshop this coming Wednesday, March 6th at 5 p.m. Pacific, right here on YouTube: the whole process start to finish, the lingo, the pre-approval, which loan fits you. Text RSVP to 844-935-3634 for the link. And to know when the weekly show goes live, text the word LIVE to that same number — 844-WE-LEND-4 — which is also the office line if you want to talk with me or the team. Have a fabulous rest of your week, and I'll be back next Wednesday at 1 p.m. Pacific on YouTube and Facebook.

Debbie Marcoux is licensed by the Department of Financial Protection and Innovation under the California Residential Mortgage Lending Act, NMLS ID #237926, and additionally licensed in AZ (0941504), FL, GA, HI, ID, IL, NV, NC, OR, TN, TX, and WA. Rates and figures discussed were current as of the air date of February 28, 2024, reflect national conforming averages, and are not an offer of credit or a rate quote. Debbie Marcoux is not a financial advisor; consult qualified professionals about your individual situation.